Entries in geography (30)
Lateral Office's Prix de Rome
The Canada Council has announced this year's Prix de Rome: it is Lateral Office, Lola Sheppard and Mason White, who have proposed a research project called Emergent North. They are off to Nunavut, the Yukon and the Northwest Territories, Alaska and Greenland to find and document northern settlements: 'the public realm, civic space, landscape and infrastructure emerging from a unique geography'.
Good, and grand. At last a Prix de Rome which is not dependent on going off to Europe or Asia, and while we are at it, might we also not shed the colonial name Prix de Rome and call it Prix d'Ottawa?
There are three components of Lateral's proposal. In Ice Road Truck Stops, ice road reinforcement mesh acts as a self-maintaining road building process and a support habitat for lake fish.
Caribou Pivot Stations are installations which provide feeding oases for migrating caribou (which find it hard uncover moss and lichen under an increasing number of ice layers in the snow pack). These micro-climates are made by a building which manipulates snow and wind to keep a clear feeding field throughout the winter.
Liquid Commons is a water-borne education system of school boats that operate between eleven Nunavut settlements: the opposite to the aggregate medical and educational facilities in the north that draw people out of their communities to a central hub.
The projects are a combination of ecological, social and infrastructural propositions. Yes there are physical things drawn out that one could call buildings, but which really are less relevant than the ambitions of each proposal. This is profoundly political architecture, moving the very definition of architecture from stylish spatial modulations of surface – especially in the north of metal siding in bright colours, to charts of concerns and how they might be addressed.
I think it is the first significant and independent Prix de Rome we have had.
Andreas Gursky
Andreas Gursky is showing his series Ocean I-VI at Sprüth Magers Berlin right now. The images are large – all around 2.5-3.5 m x 3m+, and originated in the kinds of views on flight monitors that show whatever the plane is flying over. These are all images of the oceans, the land shows as busy little fragments around the edge: peripheral and of no great mystery compared to the seas which show as deep and silent.
Gursky apprenticed with Bernd and Hilla Becher, and something of their stillness underlies all his work. While Ocean I-VI might look like straight satellite images, and indeed the bits of land are from satellite photos, the oceans themselves have been constructed. There are no clouds or storms, their proportions aren't geographically correct – they take cartographic licence as all maps do.
These pieces of water all have names, but Gursky has called them simply Ocean I, Ocean II; just as land doesn't have all the political and economic markings we understand as constituting land inscribed on its surface, neither do the oceans have pink dotted lines floating on them marking 250-miles limits, or large letters floating across them saying Pacific Ocean. Really, maps as we know them, are very crude.
Gursky has, for many years, done large photographs of large things: immaculate and perfectly regimented crowds in North Korea, flattened screens of social housing projects, any repetitive elements that are so vast in number that they become a kind of colour field, which of course is the thing that pulls him away from the often near-identical photographs of Ed Burtynsky. Repetition and the small shifts in detail in like objects were at the core of the Becher's work: I doubt they were wildly interested in water towers although they photographed hundreds of them. Their project was photographic, setting the camera in a precise and repetitive relationship with the subject, removing all the seductive elements the camera so easily exploits: colour, sun and shade, fast-frame capture of birds, wind, people.
Much is written about Gursky's work as a critique of capitalism: here are capitalism's excesses, with Burtynsky, Gursky and Polidori as a club going about documenting all its evils. I'm not sure this is quite how it is, or all that it is. There is a photographic project here, rather than a documentary project. Oceans I-VI is not documentary, it is a construction of a mystery, of inaccessibility, of understanding something one can only see in the abstract; the near-impossibility of clicking out of the abstract into some sort of existential, phenomenological present, which can only be found at the scale of standing with one's feet in the water at Departure Bay and thinking 'this water goes to Japan'.
small countries
This postcard from Australia, posted on strangemaps: If Canadians worry that they are never mentioned in the news, or acknowledged that we are in Afghanistan, or have oil reserves the size of Iran's, or are the second largest country in the world after Russia, think how Australia feels. All I've heard recently is the problem with tourists climbing Uluru and Kevin Rudd's apologies to Aborigines and the child labourers sent from Britain between 1920 and 1970. They were sent to Canada too, but we haven't apologised yet.
Australia clearly is very large, yet looms small in the global imagination. As Patrick Brown said once when someone complained that Canada was never in the news: 'Get down on your knees and thank God that Canada is not in the news. Places in the news are inevitably about disasters, wars and corruption.' I paraphrase. When Canada was proud to be a middle power, we were not particularly well-known for our mediative, behind-the-scenes role between the large powers. Now we are in the news for our four Fossil Awards.
It is hard being a large country with a small reputation.
climate and weather
Steve Sopinka has been discussing with us a project to develop a climate zone map for building. The climate zone map for planting tells you what species of plants will survive in specific areas and is well known to gardeners. Calgary is zone 2b because of its elevation, the mountains and its chinooks, föhn winds that come from Pacific weather systems and which wreak havoc with plants who wake up on a balmy January morning thinking it is spring only to be blasted with -30 the next week. Within zone 2b however there are frost pockets and warm spots. I live in the lee of the downtown with all those tall buildings blocking the wind and giving off heat and so I can garden to zone 4. North Bay is zone 3b . Vancouver Island is mostly 7a and b, parts of the Fraser River delta are zone 8, meaning they can grow almost anything.
There is a building corollary to all of this: with each climate zone come various fine-grained built responses. Tarps, amusing as I find them, are one. For example.
We are launching a call to contribute to a database of local building traditions. This database will include specific examples of local building habits, from form to roof slopes to door placement, with a hazarding of why things are built the way they are. The stepless door, so famous in Newfoundland, is not about climate, or weather, or materials, but is about social propriety. The ubiquity of the tarp, a building material in its own right on the west coast, is not about propriety, it is about rain.
This project is outlined on this page: climate zone building responses. A rather dull name, but you have to start somewhere.
Salish Sea
Thinking about the flatly named Park Bridge of yesterday's post – maybe there was a Mr. Park connected to the CPR or Golden but it is hardly a name to capture the imagination – yesterday on CBC there was a repeat of Paolo Pietropaolo's radio documentary on the Salish Sea.
This is the new name for the waters known as the Johnstone Strait, the Strait of Georgia, Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca. Georgia for George III, named by George Vancouver, happy coincidence that. Juan de Fuca was a Spanish explorer who was in the area in 1592 looking for a northwest passage. Peter Puget was a lieutenant on Vancouver's expedition in 1792.
The Johnstone Strait is bordered by Queen Charlotte Strait and is towards the top eastern end of Vancouver Island. James Johnstone was another member of Vancouver's expeditionary fleet and was the one who ascertained that Vancouver Island was an island. Queen Charlotte was the queen of George III and also the name of one of the ships of George Dixon who surveyed the Queen Charlotte Islands, known now as Haida Gwaii. Puget Sound and the Strait of Juan de Fuca are within US territory, the rest are in Canada. The Strait of George is sometimes known as the Gulf of Georgia, thus the Gulf Islands, which extend into US territory and are there known as the San Juan Islands.
This whole waterway shall soon be officially known as the Salish Sea, surrounded as it is by the Salish peoples. The naming of the Salish Sea removes the political markings on the water delineated by colonial names. The old names are all related to land ownership. Salish Sea is about the sea, not the land. One of the Salish chiefs called in 'our highway'. Interestingly it includes, within this name, the watersheds of the streams and rivers that feed it, thus extending way into the land confounding our usual notions of a sea as being something like a salt water lake. The Salish Sea defines a very precise bioregion, reminding us that colonial political boundaries almost inevitably sliced apart all the natural divisions of the land and people. The naming of the Salish Sea is a rather miraculous decolonising act, and one that is, equally miraculously, supported and promoted by all the governments within its territory.
Park Bridge, Golden BC
One of the most spectacular bridges on the Trans-Canada is the new (2007) Park Bridge on the descent into Golden. Now that it is open you barely know you are on a bridge, so wide and smooth is it, but during the several years of its construction you drove on the old highway underneath it (the highway and the CPR tracks show in the image above). The central piers are about 150 feet high, tall and elegant; from the old highway it was clear we were all going to pitch off into space way up the hill, shoot across the ravine and catch the hill on the other side, bypassing the dangerous twisting old road all together. You can't see any of this now from the new road, it is all just more highway, safe and fast and that marvellous registration of the extreme topography is lost.
Anything under construction is so exciting. It is when concept, theory and practice are all evident to the eye, and the architecture, in its widest sense, is diagrammatic and understandable. Construction workers give the scale, one understands the size of the project. Once it is all done, scale is subsumed by a comfortable opacity, the process of building has become an object, with a function, and we use it unthinkingly.
This photo is from the Park Bridge girder launching on the Kicking Horse Canyon highway construction website photo gallery. This is the link to the girder launching, but the rest of the site is worth a look.
British Columbia
One of the conditions of the colony of British Columbia joining Canada in 1871 was the building of an overland link from BC to the rest of Canada. This was the commission given to the CPR and completed in 1884. Is BC a different world than the rest of Canada? They certainly think so.
This map, drawn in the 1870s when much of BC was simply unknown to surveyors and engineers, shows just how much of a conundrum this territory must have seemed. After sailing breezily through the flat land of the prairies where nothing can be hidden from view suddenly there is the wall of the Rockies. Even today, on the much improved Trans-Canada, one cannot get through BC quickly, and the older Highway 3 through the Crows Nest is very convoluted. However, such roads keep one more alert than driving through southern Saskatchewan in a 500 mile straight line.
I like this map for the dismay it seems to exude. BC was going to be a hard project.
National Air Photo Library
Before Google's satellite, we had the National Air Photo Library. It started after WWI with Royal Flying Corps pilots at loose ends in postwar society who were put to work photographing Canada from the air. After WWII the program was boosted by returning RCAF pilots. Photos were taken at a specific height at measured intervals with two cameras producing stereo images.
The University of Calgary map library has a complete set – probably most university libraries do. There are volumes of maps with the flight paths charted on them, with thousands and thousands of photos in box files according to date and path. You look at them through stereo lenses set on a little stand. They are absolutely fascinating. Sure, Google Earth can do it all, but these are a photographic record over a century, made every few years. There is of course, a website for the NAPL, but the paraphernalia is missing.
I've used these photos in research. I love their glossy surface, I love the fact that it started as a make work project for young RCAF pilots, I love the stereoscope nature of the project: buildings leap up off the surface of the photo. And you can take them out of the library and scan them yourself. It's amazing. They did the whole country.
The two photos here (click on them to enlarge) show the century-long process of Calgary moving into farmland, quarter-section by quarter-section. The top left hand corner shows Spruce Cliff, an escarpment plateau over the Bow River, with the CPR main line at its foot. It had been subdivided in the 1900s but almost all the lots reverted to the City during the depression through tax default. A golf course had been made in the 1920s, but there hadn't been much development in Calgary from the 1920s to the late 1940s. Then it exploded. In 1951 you can see the edge of town, the golf course and a farm. In 1953, the farm is a building site for Spruce Cliff Apartments, a Corbusian array of four-storey blocks that had roof nurseries and laundries and were, briefly, a very good place to live. Spruce Cliff was a high-modern model that didn't take off here. It still stands, but in a much altered state. Which I won't show you.
the Dominion Grid
The Dominion Survey turned land into property in the tradition of the Enclosures Acts in Britain, where land commonly and traditionally farmed was enclosed by fences and walls by often self-appointed land-owners. The Dominion Survey prepared the ground for the CPR and western settlement. Land held for millennia and used in accordance with constantly re-negotiated peace treaties, all of a sudden within a few years in the 1880s, was ruled off into one-mile squares, 6 mile sections, 36 square mile townships. Road allowances were made at the edges of the sections and the first nations were bundled into reserves.
Metes and bounds, the survey system that measures land between this rock and that river, this mountain ridge and that path at least acknowledges that land has form, and in determining reserves in eastern Canada often the boundaries were negotiated according to an organic and aboriginal understanding of land use. Not so for the Sarcee Reserve, now the Tsuu T'ina Nation, which was given three townships sitting in a row, a 36 x 6 mile rectangle running from 37th Street in south Calgary to the mountains. Rivers and streams cut into this block and out again. One could perhaps understand the same area being defined by the watershed of the Elbow River perhaps, but not this indifferent and random assignation of land.
If you can measure land, you can draw it and if you can draw it, you can sell it. Is this not at the base of survey systems? I grew up with a western Canadian and an architect's love of the Dominion Grid, its absolute rationality that was nonetheless full of errors, correction lines that occur because of the curvature of the earth, delightful incongruities as a road slices over a hill and down a valley, standing on an escarpment and seeing the road go to the horizon twenty miles away. Old Saskatchewan farmers could still reel off the legal description of homesteads they'd left in the 30s: Section 22, Township 26, Range 2, West of the 4th Meridian. I thought all this was magical, and in some sense still do. But I also see it as a commercial project. The CPR was given astounding bonuses for building the railway connecting BC with eastern Canada: $25 million (about $500 million today), 25 million square miles (exactly half the land) in a 50-mile zone either side of the main line and a monopoly on rail connections to the US. Why does most of Canada live within a hundred miles of the US border? Does the CPR have something to do with this? Are section roads straight?